Shang

Boldface culinary talents—and the foodies who adore them—are defining features of this city. Where Toronto celebrates the brilliant chefs whose outstanding fare rates as some of our main attractions
January 2007

SUSUR LEE

THE RESTAURANTS Susur and the neighbouring Lee (603 King St. W., 416-504-7867).

THE CHEF Born in Hong Kong, Susur Lee received his early training in the kitchens of that city’s major Western hotels. But “east meets west” is too facile an analogy. The man sees and tastes food like Bach and Mozart imagined music: revolutionary, but so fundamentally right. This past spring, the judges of TV’s Iron Chef America robbed Lee of a win he deserved, instead awarding him a draw against New York chef Bobby Flay. His book, Susur: A Culinary Life—part bio, part collection of Lee’s most sought-after recipes—was released in 2005. 
THE FOOD “Susur is elegant but not pretentious, and very wine-friendly” is how the chef explains the more haute of his two restaurants. Gastronomes invariably choose the five- or seven-dish tasting menu, which is served in reverse: heaviest dishes first, lightest last. Perfection of ingredients—Lee goes to market personally each day—and whimsical pairings dictate all the cooking. Creations range from a spiced shortbread tart with duck confit and foie gras reduction, to tomato water spiked with anise and dill weed, served as a palate cleanser. “At Lee, it is a different type of cuisine altogether. It’s southeast Asian with a European background. It’s an urban style of eating—you don’t have to commit to several hours for a meal.”